This post is going to be split up into two mini guides for two of my favorite cities in Croatia: Trogir and Split. They are only about a 30 minute drive from each other. Split is definitely the more popular of the two, but we stayed two nights in Trogir and it was my favorite city of the whole trip. If two nights doesn’t fit into you itinerary, I would definitely recommend spending at least one day, or do a day trip over to Trogir from Split.
For a look at my total Croatia Itinerary, check it out here!
Trogir
I loved all of the cities we visited, but something about the charm, non-touristy feel of Trogir made it my favorite. Trogir is one of the most charming and oldest towns on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. Similar to Zadar and Sibenik, Trogir is full of history and its surrounding landscape is beautiful.
Trogir is charming with a unique feature that makes it even more appealing, its historic centre. Trogir’s historic centre is located on a small island connected to mainland Croatia and a larger island, Ciovo. As you will discover when you visit Trogir, the town is really beautiful from all angles and it’s no surprise it topped National Geographic lists of best Island Cities (2015).
Trogir is known for having a historic centre which is believed to be the most preserved medieval town in central Europe. You will be interested to know that due to all the buildings of historical significance found in Trogir, the whole town centre is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Where To Stay
If you have enough time to spend the night in Trogir, I could not recommend the Brown Beach House enough. Not only is it absolutely gorgeous, it is about a 10 minute walk from old town, has a pool and beach access. They also offer complimentary breakfast.
What To Do
- Trogir Old Town: Wandering around Trogir’s Old Town discovering, cool courtyards, squares, quirky shops and so much more is one of the most exciting things to do in Trogir. The streets can sometimes feel like a medieval fantasy.
- Waterfront: The waterfront is a great place to indulge your eyes with beautiful yachts sailing and docking on the harbour. The wide waterfront’s walkway was beautifully decorated with palm trees, nice seating spots and interestingly, a really clean place. Pro Tip: Do not eat right on the water front because they are tourist traps, I recommend heading into the old town and wandering a few alleys deep to find the real hidden gems.
Where To Eat
Since we spent 2 nights in Trogir, we had two amazing dinners. I would definitely recommend these two spots if you are looking for Dalmatian cuisine and some of the freshest seafood.
- Alka: Before I get to the food, this outdoor courtyard was so romantic. Nestled between all of the old buildings, green shutters, twinkling lights, and the sunset it really was a great atmosphere. I enjoyed a glass of Croatian rosé per our waiters recommendation and we split lobster with spaghetti for two. The dish came out beautiful, and it tasted even better!
- Vanjaka: For our last dinner in Trogir, we went to Vanjaka, out hotel recommended it, and it did not disappoint. We tried a traditional dish, pašticada. Traditional Dalmatian pašticada is slow-cooked beef prepared in a rich red sweet and sour sauce, usually served with gnocchi. It was delicious. The food in Croatia did not disappoint one bit!
Krka National Park
A stop at Krka National Park is a must, whether you are heading to Trogir or Split.
On our way from Zadar to Trogir, we stopped at Krka National Park. Krka National Park is over 42 miles of lakes, forests, and they are mostly known for their waterfalls. Once we arrived we were informed that after a few too many drowning tourists, that you are no longer allowed to swim. It was still beautiful to hike the waterfalls, and trails surrounding and to see the falls up close.
Island Hopping from Trogir/Split
Croatia has a very long sparkly turquoise coastline with thousands of islands and natural bays to discover. The most beautiful islands to stay are Hvar, Brac, Vis and Korcula. One of the best ways to see the islands of Croatia is through a boat charter. You can do this from either Trogir or Split.
We did not necessarily think our tour pick was the best fit for us. Next time we would charter our own boat, and visit a few islands on our own time. My next trip to Croatia I will definitely want to spend a few days island hopping, spending the night at a few islands to really experience what they have to offer.
Our tour was fine, we just don’t normally like groups. There was 12 in our group. We went to 5 different stops throughout the day including the island Vis (where Mamma Mia 2 was filmed), Blue Caves, Blue Lagoon, and the island Hvar. The islands were beautiful, we just wished we had more time to explore their beauty!
Split
Split is one of Croatia’s most vibrant coastal cites, bustling with an inviting mix of historic charm and modern life! If you fancy spending your time hopping between century old sites, a terrace-filled Riviera and an UNESCO Palace – you won’t want to miss this city.
The entire city is completely built around and inside the ruins of the enormous palace of Diocletian; restaurants now occupy what use to be servants chambers, markets fill up ancient dungeons and cellars. It looks like it could be straight out of a movie scene, and I was constantly in awe that it was, in fact, real, and not just a replica.
That being said, Split definitely was not my favorite city we visited during our time in Croatia. The water was packed with ships, yachts, and soon to be cruise ships, the city has adapted to tourism in an extreme way, with cheesy live performances with costumes and props that make the city seem more like an amusement park than an incredible preservation of this ancient palace. When you look past the hordes of tourists and overpriced, low-quality restaurants, you can truly appreciate the work of art that is Split.
Where To Stay
During our two nights in Split, we stayed at Hotel Agava. After lugging our suitcases up many many staircases, while older Croatian men laughed we made it to this boutique hotel. The main reason we picked this place was because they had a pool. Many hotels in Split do not have pools. We were quite thankful for the pool as it was in the mid-nineties during our stay.
We were about a 5 minute walk to the Riva Promenade and 10 minutes from Diocletian’s Palace.
What To Do
- Diocletian’s Palace: The most impressive part of Split is the part that resides directly within the walls of some of the grandest rooms of Diocletian’s palace. There is even a black onyx Sphinx that was a gift from an Egyptian pharaoh to Diocletian, and it has been sitting there, undisturbed, for thousands of years. And it still has its nose.
- Riva Promenade: Now this is the part of split that can read as tacky tourist. It’s the walkway that takes you right beside the water, and it extends throughout the entirety of the bay. There are countless gelato stands, palm trees, and street musicians. Regardless, the view of the water is stunning, and it is quite the scene to grab some snacks and sit on the short stone wall separating the promenade from the sea to people watch and see the sunset.
- Free Walking Tour: We love utilizing free walking tours when we first arrived in a new city. It was a great way to see the palace, old town, and learn about the history of Split. Ana was absolutely adorable, quirky, and we had a great time1
- Split Cooking Class: A true highlight of our whole entire trip! We spent the day with world renowned chef Željko Neven Bremec. We first started at the farmer’s market to pick up some fresh fruit and veggies, and then wandered to the fish market to select the freshest seafood of the day. This was such an amazing experience getting to learn hands on from one, if not the best chef in all of Croatia. He was such a cool guy as he told stories, taught us some tips in the kitchen, and sipped wine all afternoon. I even filleted my own fish! Our final meal that we cooked was: carpaccio, summer salad, grilled fished, grilled zucchini, calamari, shrimp risotto, green beans, Swiss chard and potatoes, homemade bread, and rožata for dessert (basically like flan). We practically rolled out of the place we were so full! But I highly recommend this experience!
Where To Eat
Split is crammed with traditional and contemporary restaurants and cafés from the narrow old streets to the harbour front – the scene is thriving! However, I have only noted 2 restaurants that we ate at. We completely avoided eating anyway on the Riva because it was way too touristy. But both of these spots were yummy.
- Fife: With family style dining, and big long wooden picnic tables, you felt like your Croatian grandmother was cooking for you. We enjoyed a summer Croatian staple: stuffed bell peppers and mashed potatoes. It was super yummy. I never say no to mashed potatoes!
- Konoba Fetivi (Michelin Star): Father-son duo are the chefs, and they took quite good care of us. From his recommendation of a lovely Croatian white wine, to the shrimps in a garlic sauce (he of course brought out extra bread for dipping). He then picked us out an exquisite white Adriatic fish, Orada, which was grilled to perfection. Mom and I both agreed this was probably the best fish we have ever had in our life.
Like I mentioned above, Spilt is definitely a touristy city in Croatia. I recommend still going to experience it, but if you are looking for a more raw, relaxed, authentic experience I think a trip to Trogir is a must!
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